Now in their tenth anniversary year, Universal Works proves that creating consistent, substantive clothing has trendless tenure. Each UW collection blends with the last, forming a canon of easy-wearing, well considered layers.

When designer David Keyte started Universal Works, it was with a purity of focus: Function, fit, and cut - slowly tweaking icons until they represent their style and function even better than the originals. Universal Works garments are a value statement - the stiff upper lip of style - a calm approach to a deep closet of mix-and-match favorites.

This is the weekend refinement of British working class pride in appearance, governed by habits of self-respect. It’s a layered mix of streetwear, workwear, and military influences with clean discipline. Adding to that are rich, saturated colors and luxurious, textured fabrics.

And that has been a prominent theme across the board for our designers this season. There are many examples of comfortable clothes in FW19 that have subtle gravitas. It comes down to the rich and sometimes surprising composition of known silhouettes created from lavish fabrications and details. A contrasting buttonhole stitch here, a tasteful high pile fleece there, some furry melton wool, and maybe an extra pocket that has design as much as utility in mind.

For the adventurous, this means layers of inviting depth, a play of warm and warmer - sensational and conspicuous. And for the more traditional, it’s about adding something rich into the mix of our customary, flat laying clothes. New depth to classic design - quality as style.

Any way you wear it, this season has us excited about cool weather and holiday get-togethers.