orSlow Pants: Details and Fit
Whenever you’re ready for a new pair of pants, there’s a few core favorites from orSlow that we always recommend. To help you find exactly what you’re looking for, we compiled every detail you could ever want in order to understand the construction, fit and details of the 5 mainstays that return season after season...
Whatever your walk of life, it’s in jeans; they’re the workhorses of the wardrobe. Worldwide, people own an average of 6 pairs, but only wear 4. There’s probably significantly higher averages in this community, but amongst the stacks in the closet, the few in heavy rotation stay on top. We all have our favorites. There is simply no other material that develops character like denim does, so finding the right couple of pairs is worth the hunt.
There’s a lot of great choices out there. If you like something slubby, with variance in the texture and that will produce amazing, mostly vertical fades over time, Pure Blue Japan and Tanuki produce some fine pieces (more on Slub and Nep here). If you’re looking for something special with even more texture and the deepest indigo possible, nothing matches Kapital’s sashiko stitched Century Denim. All of those will age beautifully, but can take some work to break-in.
If you’re looking for a daily pair that starts out great and keeps getting better, orSlow denim continues to be our favorite.
107 Ivy Denim
107 Ivy Denim - 2 Year Wash
107s win top billing for us. They’re the perfect balance between modern and classic, have no uncomfortable break-in period and benefit from heavy use. There’s nothing aggressive on any front, just a detail rich, total package of a jean. (They were also the winner in our Denim Fits feature.)
Modeled after a favorite pair in designer Ichiro Nakatsu’s vintage collection, these are a refined familiar. With a slightly curved hip, but a straight waistband, these sit comfortably in the top-block without looking slouchy. They’re a very clean cut that pairs with anything. They have some texture, but it is pretty uniform and will fade accordingly - predominately at the stress points.
107s come in a classic, natural indigo dyed denim in both a One Year and Two Year Wash. By doing so, this sanforization process reduces future shrinkage (mostly, but not completely) so you can usually pick your normal size without a problem. Additionally, this will limit dye transfer associated with raw denim.
107 Ivy Denim - One Wash
Being the most popular cut, you can switch it up from the indigo blues with versions in white, black, or a washed black. The most comparable jeans to these are Levi’s 505s from the 1960s (if you can find them). If you can’t, picture rock & roll before highly tapered “skinny” jeans - like Sticky Fingers era Rolling Stones.
107 Ivy Denim - Black
107 Ivy Denim - Black Stone
107 Ivy Denim - White
If you have thicker thighs, you’ll fill these out without feeling like your legs are sausages. But if you’re looking for some extra movement or you want to add a little volume to your look, then go for the 105s.
105 Standard Denim
105 Standard Denim - One Wash
105s are a chip off the old block. Modeled after Industrial Era 501s, these are the truest classics of American style. orSlow takes that and puts every bit of Japanese craftsmanship ethos into them. They’re cut from the same cloth as the 107s and the comfortable top-block is the same refined balance of look and feel. The only real difference between the two is in the leg taper. 105s have a relaxed taper that is close to a straight cut. 105s fit over a bigger boot comfortably and match nicely to any chunkier footwear.
Slim Fit Army Trousers
As written about here, chinos have a long history of style lineage far beyond Dockers in cubicles. These Slim Fit Army Trousers may be our favorite khaki chinos out there. From the perfect weight and the subtle styling, these pants work with anything. With slash pockets on the side, inset pockets on the back, a pocket watch front pocket and a slightly tapered fit (somewhere between 105s and 107s), these keep to the clean lines of a good trouser. Similar to orSlow denim in the top-block, but maybe even more comfortable by eliminating the lower waistband seam in favor of darts that have a tailored feel. They pair up or down easily and have additional bartacking at the pocket stress points to keep their shape - even if you’re one for packing your pockets.
The best part might be the fabric. A gorgeous drill twill that will age beautifully and get more textured with time. The step, or offset between the rows of the twill weave, creates the characteristic diagonal pattern. The benefits of twilled fabrics is increased durability while also having less wrinkles and creases. The cotton drill gives it a bit more sheen, but stays as strong and durable as denim.
Slim Fit Fatigue Pants
Slim Fit Fatigue Pants - Olive Reverse Sateen
Another classic that can’t be conquered. Since first becoming army standard issue in 1952 until their discontinuation in 1989, Olive Drabs in heavy cotton sateen have become icons for much more than their pragmatic origins. Worn as statements by pro-war and anti-war protesters alike, the truth is that they’re just incredibly solid pants with a color that’s attractive to everyone. With heavy duty seams, patch pockets and 4 hole resin buttons, they’re made to stand up to anything.
It’s hard to beat a great pair of broken-in fatigues, but the traditional fit was a bit rushed and simple. OrSlow solved this. First sourcing the exact fabric and then washing and working it to feel just like the original, they are then cut with a much more modern slim fit that seems to fit well on everyone. Similar to the taper in 107s, these are the pants you've been hunting for in vintage shops, but aren’t going to find.
New Yorker Pant
A staple of orSlows that became an instant classic and a favorite go-to. The New Yorker Pant looks so aesthetically clean, but are as comfortable as your oldest pair of heather grey sweatpants. Somewhere between a jogger and a climbing pant, they’re perfect for everyday wear with a nice and trim silhouette and a no-fuss elastic waistband and drawstring. Slash pockets and a single, reinforced inset pocket in the back make it a great casual trouser that works in most situations.
There have been different iterations of these over the years using different fabrics, but this cotton ripstop is the best of the bunch. The ripstop is breathable and soft, but it’s also one of the most durable fabric innovations of the past 100 years. It’s what is used for hot air balloons, parachutes, sails and lots of outdoorswear - anywhere there’s a need for something that has to be both light and tough. During weaving, thick threads are interwoven at regular intervals in a crosshatch pattern that gives the fabric depth and the ability to stop small tears from getting bigger.
All of these orSlow pieces are core favorites that will be mainstays season after season. They all look good on everyone and draw on timeless classics that will never go out of style.
To see video of everything, click below...
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