All About Phigvel

ALL ABOUT PHIGVEL

By Charles Fout

Since 2002, Hideki Tohno’s Phigvel Makers Co. has been reimagining heritage garments for contemporary use. The combination of function and comfort with craft and technology creates “New Classics.” Through this process, Phigvel’s garments feel very familiar while maintaining uniqueness. 

Phigvel understands that heritage clothes exist in a different space from other clothing. Heritage clothes act as tools, prioritizing utility and function over everything else. Throughout history, mankind has evolved in its efforts against nature, using leather for protection, wool for warmth, and cotton to battle heat. As humanity advanced, the technology in clothing advanced allowing man to prevail in harsh environments. By using newly developed technology, humankind achieved efforts previously impossible like summiting Mount Everest, crossing the Sahara, and landing on the moon.

Due to the nature of vintage heritage clothes being worn through decades of adventures, most of the garments from these eras are now unwearable. When vintage functional clothes are in wearable condition, they often feel costumey because they lack any of the countless advancements in technical design and changes in sensibilities and taste. 

When Phigvel began, they decided it was time to create a new heritage collection that can improve upon historic functional designs while embodying contemporary practicality and wearability, in hope of their clothes becoming an inspiration to future generations. The goal of Phigvel is to fully embrace the value of historic garments while implementing today’s technology— reinterpreting heritage garments for modern wear. By continuing the progression of utilitarian clothes, a dialogue has been created that will advance perpetually.

The idea of function encompasses each Phigvel garment, starting with the pattern. Raglan sleeves, two-way zippers, and roomy cuts are used to allow freedom of motion. Game pockets become laptop cases and additional panels reinforce high stress areas that suit modern life. 

The addition of these functional choices come with great intention, and many only become apparent once you wear the garment. This restraint allows each garment to remain sleek while maintaining optimal utility, resulting in Phigvel clothes being perfect for daily wear no matter the environment. 

Fabric also plays a great role in Phigvel designs. Bespoke fabric blends and historic mills create a base for technical garments. Phigvel pulls from the past to ensure warmth and waterproofing with Shetland wool and wax coatings, guaranteeing each item ages well and maintains that signature historic presence. 

Another way Phigvel reintroduces the past is through craft. As industrialization introduced machines, human craft and attention to detail was replaced by cost cutting efficiency. After a painstaking search, Phigvel found manufacturers willing to implement extremely fine stitching on all of their garments, ensuring durability and vintage charm.

Even though Phigvel’s garments carry that authentic heritage feel, Phigvel infuses each fiber with cutting edge technology. They seek out heritage mills who continue to develop nature-proofing technology and tanneries who push leather to its limit to bring out the best in their garments. 

Since Phigvel began over 20 years ago, there has been a continuous effort to improve upon their designs. As sensibilities shift, slight adjustments are made. Fabric blends become more robust or an updated leather processing is chosen. Each of these changes would seem minuscule to most, but only by refining through this magnified lens can the best products come to life. 

This is what separates Phigvel from other clothing brands— the intense consideration that takes already perfect clothes and makes them better. The viewpoint that proves clothes aren’t timeless, but enduring clothes can last a lifetime; especially when features compound through Hideki Tohno’s curatorial, restrained, and tasteful vision.

Tohno’s meticulous and comprehensive process is reflected in each of the garments, but a shining example is Phigvel’s Sherpa Shearing Coat. Phigvel’s twist on the iconic duffle coat still carries the spirit of liberation and counterculture developed in the mid-20th century while replacing the standard duffel fabric with a twilight blue sheepskin. The sheepskin with the raw-edge finished pockets and toggle closures reflect the ancient, both going centuries back, reminding us of the nomads in Central Asia who continue to conquer the world’s highest peaks. The diagonal throat latch keeps frigid air at bay and adds the Phigvel touch that brings a modern edge to the luxurious coat. 

It’s only natural for a designer so clued in to performance gear to be a true outdoorsman. Hideki Tohno is an avid fly fisherman with evidence of his time at camp and in streams shown through many of this collection’s features. The cinched hems and waxed fabric of Phigvel’s Waxed Cloth String Trousers allow each leg to stay place when worn under waders and dry quickly even if they’re doused. The fatigue style patch pockets and drawstring waist make them practical for casual wear even if you’re spending the day in an urban environment. The matching Waxed Cloth Field Coach Jacket is just as practical outdoors. The hem, similar to the hem of the pants, cinches and ties. This is perfect for adjusting where the base of the jacket falls depending on the depth of the stream or for pulling tight to keep out wind. Where the pants take casual cues from military fatigues, the jacket takes cues from the sports world and heritage hunting gear. The sporting inspiration is visible in the snap closures and technical fabric and the leather pocket tacks and large rear pocket recall mid-century hunting jackets. 

Alternatively, Phigvel’s duck cloth set, the Duck Cloth Workaday Blouson and Duck Cloth Hunter Trousers, combine utilitarian military silhouettes with hard-wearing workwear materials. The 100% cotton duck cloth is surprisingly light-weight, perfect for running errands or trekking through the woods. The blouson’s quilted liner adds warmth, while the two-way zipper allows for increased breathability, and additional duck cloth panels reinforce high contact areas to ensure longevity. The trouser’s double pleats add extra space in the top block and make them incredibly easy to wear on the move. The bomber and work-pant styles also fit seamlessly into every wardrobe making them a great choice for any lifestyle. This amalgamation of function, fusing every realm of technical design, creates a new space in garment creation where Phigvel stands alone. 

Canoe Club is excited to bring in Phigvel Makers 14th collection following last year’s Lady White Co. x Phigvel collaboration capsule. This FW25 collection takes inspiration from the world of hiking, climbing, and camping, making it a perfect fit for a Coloradan menswear store.

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